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"Makeup Box Box" from the Ming and Qing Dynasties to the Republic of China's traditional silver jewelry
"Makeup Lin Lang"
"Yijin Mei Xing"
What kind of hair style of the concubine in the Qing Dynasty can be said to be a mysterious thing: since Cixi listened to the government, it has only been revealed to the world with the "mother instrument". The "Dara Wing" popular in the late Qing Dynasty was identified as the formal hair form of the court concubine. Eunuchs were ordered, and folk women have imitated it. In fact, the concubine style of the Qing Dynasty also experienced the process of the development of the Qing Dynasty in the Qing Dynasty, from low to high, from simple to complex, from simplicity to luxury.
The Manchu who ruled the Qing Dynasty lived between the white mountains and black water in the northeast of our country. The natural environment created the lifestyle of their fishing, hunting, farming, and picking. In order to move fast and easy to ride and shoot, the Manchu men and women have the habit of distinguishing long dishes. The hair is about to compile a long discern from the top of the head, and the plate is round. At that time, regardless of identity, the rich and the poor were low, and the hair was unified. Later, after Nurhachi built the Golden State and built a crown service system. The concubine of the court was loosened to the head of her head for the need to wear the crown in order to wear the crown. In the early Qing Dynasty, the crown service system was once again. Except for the concubine during the ceremony, the concubine would wear a sister -in -law after the festive festival. Put on the mule, and then the backing of the head is not adapted. As a result, the concubines combed two horizontal long buns, shaped like the two grabbing buns that were combed by the little girl, and it was very solid to put on the sister -in -law. After taking off the sister -in -law, this kind of grabbing bun can also be dressed up. Because of this hair style, divide around, and each pierced one. Several queens and queens in the early Qing Dynasty were frugal. When they combed their two heads, they only wore flowers and did not admire their jewelry. "Little two heads" were popular in the Qing Palace for a long time. Until the Qianlong dynasty, Queen Xiaoxian was just wearing grass and not wearing gold and silver jewelry. It is used to urge the concubine in the palace to be frugal. The characteristics of the "small two heads" are to combine with my hair and cannot wear heavy gold and silver jewelry. The emergence of "two small heads" was based on practicality. With the consolidation of the rule of the Qing Dynasty and economic development, the concubine's hair style also developed from small to large, from a practical type to the aesthetic and beautiful decoration.
It in the middle of the Qing Dynasty, it was the golden age of Qianlong's prosperous age. During this period, the production methods and lifestyles have developed greatly, and the jewelry production process is no exception. The court of the Qing Dynasty was in a special position, and the precious jewelry from all over the country continued to tribute to the Qing Palace, which greatly stimulated the pursuit of the pursuit of beautiful jewelry in the court. However, the jewelry of these considerable amounts of gold, silver, jade, pearls, and gems is required to wear it on the head. Such as the "two small heads" drooping, almost getting to the ears, loose hair, and dispersing a little. How to put on these beautiful jewelry? As a result, a new combing tool -the hair rack came into being. The hair rack is made of wood and a wire twisted, like a horizontal glasses rack. When combing your hair, first fix the head seat, then put on the hair rack, divide the hair into two left and right, and cross the hair rack. A long flat square is inserted in the middle (inserted in the two holes of the hair rack), and then fixed the hair slightly with a needle, and the jewelry was caught. The drooping hair behind the two heads is combed into a flat shape, and the ends are bundled with a hair band, which is slightly upturned, like a sloppy tail. The entire bun was like a swallow to fly. At the younger, Dai Yanli's treasure jewelry showed the young and lively vitality. The old combing "two heads", the selected texture of the jewelry is noble, reflecting the dignified and stable of the elderly women. The royal woman combed two heads on her head, put on valuable jewelry, and echoed high -bottomed shoes under her feet. Walking on the road, the upper body stands upright and holds the abdomen. It seems to be rhythmic. Establish the best image of women's actions for feudal society.
It in the late Qing Dynasty, the concubine of the Qing Palace was popular with the "big pull wings" hairstyle. "Big Pull Wing" is a hard shell that looks like a fan, about a foot height. It uses iron wire to make a round hoop and skeleton according to the size of the head circumference, and then use the cloth to make a tire. Wrap the green satin and green velvet cloth outside, and make a fixed two -headed head. When you need to use it, wear it on your head. It can be described as beautiful and free to wear, and it can be described as beautiful. "Qing Palace Ci" said: "The phoenixes are two together, and the pearls are protective. The city is more than higher than the ruler, and the fork is divided into the tap." The original invention is related to her status in the Qing Palace. Cixi was selected into the Qing Palace with a show girl, and was promoted by the nobles, concubines, and concubines as emperors. After Emperor Xianfeng died in Chengde, Dai Chun, the only son of Cixi, inherited the throne. Zun Cixi was the Queen Mother of the Virgin, and began to listen to politics, manipulating the political power of the Qing Dynasty for half a century. Cixi is called the Empress Dowager, and she is a generation of queen. She is different from the emperor and queen of the Qing Dynasty. In addition, she is extravagant and lives. Food, food, housing, and transportation must meet her standards of pursuing "beauty".
In this shows that Cixi created a "big pull -wing" hair cover is the true portrayal of her power and status.
The concubine style from the Qing Dynasty from simple "small two heads" to "fork head", and "big wings" all have obvious Manchu traditional characteristics. National style. Below is described separately: Bian Fang: Bian Fang is the main jewelry when the Manchu woman combed the "two heads". In the book "The Life of the Nobels in the End of the Qing Dynasty" co -authored by Zai Tao and Bao Baohui, it once talked about "the Manchu woman usually combs 'two heads', which is simple in style. superior". The flat square is generally between 32-35 cm and 4 cm wide. 0.2-0.3 cm thick. It is a ruler -shaped, semi -round at one end, and one end like a scroll. Combing "fork head" or "big wings" play a role in horizontal connection. The men in the Han Dynasty were decorated with crown, 弁, and corona. The crown, crickets, and crowns were connected to a 12 -inch long big puppet, wearing from left to right.
The flat squares of the Manchu women in the Qing Dynasty have a similar effect on the Han Dynasty, and the size is the same. It's just that the object is different. It can be inferred that Bian Fang may evolve from the long -lasting puppet. However, Bian Fang also has a small size. If he encounters a funeral, his wife is her husband Dai Xiao. Put down the "two heads" and insert a small flat square of about 3 inches on the head. Daughter -in -law Dai Xiao, a mother -in -law, will insert a silver or white copper small flat square to show the difference.
The flat squares worn by concubines in the Qing Dynasty, including gold, silver, jade, green, 玳瑁, Jia Nanxiang, sandalwood wood, pearls, gems, etc. Its system is rare in the world. Such as golden silk silk, silver inlaid gemstones, golden lame flowers, and jade carvings. On the narrow surface of only one -inch wide square, it can make exquisite patterns such as flowers, birds, fish insects, pavilions, and melon and fruits. The concubines wearing flat squares and deliberately revealed the decorations at both ends, and some were still in the shaft holes at the one end of the flat square. They walked up and moved to the movement, which added a woman's dignified and beautiful manner.
: The use of is used very early. In the Yangshao culture of the Neolithic period, there are round vertebrae -shaped bone -shaped bone -shaped bone -shaped bone -shaped bone -shaped bone -shaped bone -shaped bone -shaped bone -shaped bone bone -shaped bone -shaped bonus. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, Jinzhang and Yuli appeared one after another and became a symbol of the identity of the slave owners and nobles. The emperor was decorated with jade and concubines. Secondly, the ivory crickets and 象 are worn by the courtiers. Judging from the decoration left by the concubine of the Qing Dynasty, there are two types of practical and decorative types. Most of the practical puppets are long -stained needles, and the texture is mostly gold, silver, copper, etc., and it plays a role in fixed head shape during the plate. The decorative 选 is mostly used with precious texture materials to make exquisite patterns, which are specially used for buns and sorting out in obvious positions. The concubine of the Qing Dynasty was made of gold, jade beads, and gems. For example, the existing "Baiyu Yisu" existing in the Forbidden City is carved into a "Shou" word written with a pure sheep fat and white jade. The emerald plate intestines carved in the same way, red coral bats are all good works in the decoration. The character of the golden blessing, the magpie, the magpie, and the five bats are famous for their sculptures, exquisite and clear. Furthermore, the heads of all kinds of pearls and gemstones are inlaid on the gold and silver bottom, mostly composed of two parts: head and needle. The cricket head is made of flower leaf branches with different thickness of copper wires, and then
has drilled the flowers and the bottom of the flowers to make the gemstone, wear a fine copper wire, and wrap it into a large elastic spring, move gently, move gently, and move it. Good at flowing. Make bird's eyes and tentacles, the leaves and branches of plants are realistic, beautiful and small. Wearing it on women's heads, it undoubtedly increased a bit of beautiful appearance.
The head flowers: The head flower is the main jewelry of the concubine of the Qing Palace combed the "fork head" and the "big pull -winged" hair bun, mostly inlaid with jewelry. For example, the ruby skewers in the Forbidden City, rice bead head flowers, feather dots of green three friends (pine, bamboo, plum) head flowers, sapphire dragonfly head flowers, ruby flowers, cotton head flowers, golden silk silk double dragon drama bead head flowers, Gold -embedded rice beads, double money head flowers, etc., are known for exquisite production and realistic image. The concubine of the Qing Palace wore a head, because of the large flowers and large coverage, wearing it in the middle of the "two heads", it looked magnificent. The concubine of the Qing Dynasty wearing a head has a beautiful decoration of the bun, and it also means to show identity and status. In many portraits and photos of Cixi, she can see the image of her bun tall and wearing a big head. Cixi not only likes jewelry head flowers, but also likes to wear big velvet flowers. This is because the "velvet flower" in Chinese is close to the "Ronghua" in Manchu. Wearing velvet flowers has the meaning of glory and wealth. Therefore, the concubine of the Qing Palace wore a velvet flower all year round to seek auspiciousness. In particular, wearing seasonal velvet flowers in the order of seasons: Lifa spring day wearing velvet spring salamanders, Qingmingri wearing velvet sprouts, Duanyang day wearing velvet wormwood, dill in the Mid -Autumn Festival, Chongyang Sunrise wearing velvet, gourd velvet flowers in the winter solstice ...
Liu Su: In 1904, American female painter Carl drew several oil portraits for Cixi, one of which was wearing a yellow -sir -wisteria duranto group. Pearl green jewelry: Cuiyu, Phoenix, Jin Bian Fang, Gem head flower, pearl head hoop, and a string of streaming soverell, adding a sense of grace and wealth to Cixi. The steps of the tassel and the eight major jewelry in ancient times are extremely imagined. "Those who shake the golden pearls and jade are dangled from the siege. After the Han Dynasty, Buyao gradually became popular and became one of the favorite jewelry of women. The concubine of the Qing Palace claimed that the step was to shake the tassel. There are various forms, with dragon craccium heads, bird heads, butterflies, crickets, bats, etc. at the top, or beads or pearls on the top of the head. There are also one, two layers, and three layers of beads. A piece of "Mizhu Shuangxi Poly Song" exhibited in the Palace Palace was married by the queen when he was married with Emperor Geng Emperor. At the top of the tassel is a large bat of feathers, two small golden rings in their mouths, and a Ruyi cloud head of Ruyi Ruyi is connected below. Ruyi Yuntou is parallel to three long pearls. Each serial pearl is divided into three layers in parallel, and the two -hi -character interval carved by red coral between the layers. The bottom end of the beads uses ruby as a fall. The whole stream is 28 cm long and worn at the top of the bun, and the ears are drooping and flat. It is the longest one of the tassel. Most of the tassels collected by the Qing Palace are worn by the queen, and the number of phoenixes is the largest. For example, one dragon and one phoenix confrontation is called "Dragon and Phoenix Chengxiang", and the opposite of Shuangfeng is called "Cai Feng Shuangfei". The peony flowers and the phoenix are "Danfeng Chaoyang", "Phoenix Put the Peony" and so on. The emperor was self -contained in the emperor, and the queen was the phoenix of the king of birds. The feudal emperor hopes that he is more and more grandson, so there are many themes of Phoenix and Phoenix in the queen's headdress. In addition, the concubine head jewelry in the headdress of Lezi, 钿 此, pimple needle, old crow scoop, ear -digging spoon, and other Manchu characteristic jewelry is a "two heads" of the concubines of the Qing Dynasty used to fix and decorate the buns. With the fusion of the customs and customs culture of the Han Dynasty, the concubine's headdress of the Qing Dynasty was gradually absorbed by the folk, and therefore evolved many headdresses loved by women.